Leslie Bellais, Social History at the Wisconsin Historical Society) had earlier judged the
above clothing as dating from 1902-1905, but a second request for clarification brought
the following analysis:
The blousy front and droopy sleeve at the wrist is what made me think this was a 1902-1905 image,
but I decided to see if this look could have existed in the early 1890s. I also checked to see if a
sleeve puff at the shoulder line existed in the 1902-1905 era. To answer the second question first:
even though there was gathering and pleating of the sleeve at the shoulder line in 1902-1905, the puff did
not stand vertical from the shoulder. On the other hand, the most common sleeve of the 1890-1892 era was
tight from the elbow to the wrist. In fact, I would say 90-95% of the sleeves from that era had that design.
However, I have found a few dated fashion illustrations showing the same sleeve, usually called a bishop sleeve,
your woman is wearing. I’ve attached three of them here. I believe your photo is closest to the garment labeled
“Ladies’ House Toilette.” (as in figure at right) You will notice the sleeve seems to have
a droop at the wrist and the bodice front is blousy.
This blousiness is a feature left over from some 1880s dresses and is not the 1900s pouter pigeon front.
The upshot is, I stand corrected. I would now date this image 1890-1892.
Sorry for not getting this right the first time. I am always learning about the vagaries of Victorian fashion.
The woman in your photo is wearing something available in the time period, but very far from typical.
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